Munich, the city of home-brewed beers, is equally blessed with a wide variety of restaurants. There’s something to please virtually every palate—and pocketbook—ranging from gourmet and traditional Bavarian specialties to fresh seafood and ethnic delicacies. Be advised that not every establishment accepts credit cards. You can expect to pay within these general price ranges, based on the cost of a dinner for one, excluding drinks: $ = less than 14 DM; $$ = 14 DM-30 DM; $$$ = 30 DM-70 DM; $$$$ = more than 70 DM.

Best In Town

Bogenhausener Hof—Romantic setting and exquisite cuisine in a neighborhood of expensive old homes. Specialties include pheasant, wild duck and fish—no Bavarian dishes served. Reservations imperative. $$$$. Credit cards. Monday-Saturday noon-2:30 pm and 6 pm-1 am. Closed Sundays and holidays. In Bogenhausen, south of Herkomerplatz at Ismaninger Strasse 85, phone 985-586.

Halali—Game is the specialty of the house, both in terms of the food and the decor. Pheasant, duck, deer, fish and seasonal soups are the mainstays of the menu. Monday-Friday noon-3 pm and 6 pm-1 am, Saturday 6 pm-1 am. Reservations necessary. $$$. Credit cards welcome. Near Odeonsplatz at Schonfeldstrasse 22, phone 285-909.

Kafer Schanke—Fine dining above one of Munich’s best-known gourmet delicatessens. Lobster, fish, delicious soups and seasonal entrees. Changing lunch menus and an excellent wine selection. Monday-Saturday 11:30 am-1 am. Reservations necessary. $$$. Credit cards. Prinzregentenstrasse 73, phone 416-8247.

Konigshof—German and international dishes. An unforgettable view from the dining room takes in several landmarks, including Karlsplatz and the Palace of Justice. Daily 6:30-10:30 am, noon-2:30 pm and 6:45-11 pm. Reservations advised. $$$. Major credit cards. Karlsplatz 25, phone 551-360.

Tantris—Fashionable and elegant dining in northern Schwabing. Innovative and light French cuisine, dramatic decor. Tuesday-Saturday noon-3 pm and 6:30 pm-1 am. Reservations necessary. $$$$. Major credit cards. Johann Fichte Strasse 7, phone 362-061.

Local Bavarian Favorites

Bavarian dishes tend to be a bit heavy, but good local beers and Franconian wines help to wash them down. Braten (roasts), Schweinshaxe (ham hocks) and Weisswurst (white sausages) are popular meats, usually accompanied by sauerkraut. Dumplings, known as Knodel, are made of either potato (Kartoffel) or bread (Semmel) and are also common side dishes. Leberknodelsuppe is a clear broth served with a liver dumpling. Leberkas, a loaf of minced pork, veal and liver, is definitely an acquired taste. Locals fervently believe in the digestive properties of an after-dinner schnapps.

Andechser am Dom—The monks of Kloster Andechs (south of Munich) have brought their tasty beer and Bavarian specialties to the city. Roast pork in dark beer sauce, grilled bratwurst, duck and fish entrees. Daily 9 am- 1 pm. $-$$. Near Frauenkirche at Weinstrasse 7a, phone 298-481.

Augustiner Braustuben—The food is always good at brewery restaurants and this one is no exception. Bavarian cooking at its absolute best, plus fresh Augustiner beer. Daily 10 am-midnight. Very popular, so reservations are advised. $-$$. Near the Hackerbrucke S-Bahn stop at Landsberger Strasse 19, phone 507-047.

Unionsbrau—Bavarian specialties are served upstairs in a more formal setting or downstairs on wood tables laden with bowls of crunchy malt seeds. The true specialty is the naturally cloudy, unfiltered beer. Ask about the special jazz nights. Daily 10:30 am-midnight. $-$$. In Haidhausen at Max Weber Platz, Einsteinstrasse 42, phone 47767.

Weisses Brauhaus—The atmosphere is always bustling in this legendary Munich restaurant. Home of the famous Schneider-Weisse wheat beer. Typical Bavarian dishes are served in a crowded dining room. It’s customary to join a table of strangers if a chair is free. Daily 8 am-midnight. $-$$. Near Marienplatz at Tal 10, phone 299-875.

French And Italian

Bernie’s Nudelbrett—Family-run Italian restaurant in the same central location—overlooking Viktualienmarkt—for more than 20 years. Pasta, pizza, steaks and seafood. Casual atmosphere. $-$$. Daily 11 am-11 pm, Friday and Saturday till midnight. Petersplatz 6, phone 264-469.

Cinecitta—Friendly and very busy Italian eatery dedicated to Italian film stars. Great appetizers, good pasta and generous portions of tiramisu for dessert. Daily 11:30 am-11:30 pm. $. Theresienstrasse 144 (Theresienstrasse U-Bahn station), phone 522-209.

Dal Vecio—Authentic, very good Italian food with an excellent selection of Barolo wines. Off the tourist track but worth the trip. Sunday-Friday noon-2:30 pm and 6 pm-midnight. Reservations necessary. $$$. Major credit cards. In Bogenhausen, near Herkomerplatz at Newtonstrasse 13, phone 985-152.

Le Bousquerey—Excellent French dishes and wines, tempting desserts and a cheese plate normally found west of the Rhine. Daily 6 pm-1 am. Reservations advised. $$-$$$. In Haidhausen (Rosenheimplatz S-Bahn stop), at Rablstrasse 37, phone 488-455.

Rue des Halles—Highly regarded French bistro offering delicious, unpretentious food. Excellent service. Open every day for dinner only, 6:30 pm- 1 am. Reservations essential. $$$. MasterCard only. In Haidhausen (near Max Weber Platz), at Steinstrasse 18, phone 485-675.

Asian

Maharani—Small yet cozy with excellent, spicy Indian specialties. Daily noon- 3 pm (except Saturdays) and 6 pm-midnight. $$-$$$. Near the Hauptbahnhof at Rottmannstrasse 24, phone 527-912.

Shida—Traditional and flavorful Thai dishes served up in a cozy atmosphere in the Gartnerplatz quarter. Daily 6 pm-midnight. Reservations imperative. $$-$$$. Klenzestrasse 32 (Frauenhoferstrasse U-Bahn station), phone 269-336.

Additional Dining Experiences

Kytaro—Very popular and lively Greek restaurant in Haidhausen. Beef, lamb and fish dishes from the grill, plus gyros and tsatsiki. Reservations imperative. Daily 5 pm-1 am. $$. Near Max Weber Platz at Innere Wiener Strasse 36, phone 480-1176.

Opus One—Sophisticated California cuisine with an excellent selection of California wines. Open for lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm, and daily for dinner 6:30-10:30 pm (Friday and Saturday till 11:30 pm). $$-$$$. Credit cards accepted. Near the Stiglmaierplatz U-Bahn station, at Seidlstrasse 18, phone 557-681.

Paulaner Metropolitan—Newly opened in 1997, it’s the place with a million-dollar view. A glass elevator takes you up to the restaurant’s contemporary interior with floor-to-ceiling windows. Great view of Marienplatz. The menu emphasizes international cuisine (Asian, Italian, seafood). Sunday brunch. Daily 10 am-1 am. $$-$$$. Marienplatz 22, phone 230-9770.

Welser Kuche—A medieval meal served in the cellars beneath the Feldherrnhalle on Odeonsplatz. Hearty, authentic medieval recipes eaten with only one utensil. Reservations necessary. Opens at 7 pm, meal for all guests begins at 8 pm. Closed on two-day holidays. $$$$. Residenzstrasse 27, phone 296-565.

Breakfast And Late Night

Cafe Puck—Pancakes and a coffeehouse atmosphere in the heart of the student quarter. Varied breakfast menu. Crowded in the evenings. Daily 9 am-1 am. $. Turkenstrasse 33 (Universitat U-Bahn station), phone 280-2280.

Cafe Reitschule—Lively atmosphere with a deejay. An “in” spot for Munich’s hip crowd. Uncomplicated food and good breakfast menu. Beer garden, too. Sunday-Thursday 9 am-1 am, Friday and Saturday till 3 am. $-$$. Near Englischer Garten. Koniginstrasse 34 (Giselastrasse U-Bahn station), phone 333-402.

Marktcafe—Strudel heaven, both for the traditional varieties (apple and cherry) and the not-so-traditional (veggie, cheese, spinach or sauerkraut). Good breakfast menu. Monday-Friday 9 am-10 pm, Saturday 9 am-5 pm. $-$$. At Viktualienmarkt, Heiliggeiststrasse 2, phone 227-816.

Schmalznudeln— Cafe Frischhut—A Munich institution. After a night of dancing, it’s the place to go for an eye-opening cup of coffee and fresh donuts. The atmosphere created by the late-night/early-morning crowd is a show in itself. Monday-Saturday 5 am-5 pm. $. Near Viktualienmarkt at Pralet Zistl Strasse 8, phone 268-237.

Beer Halls And Beer Gardens

Although most famous for their liter-sized mugs of frothy beer and the lively atmosphere, beer halls and beer gardens can also be good places to eat. Most of the food falls into the hands-on category: ribs, rotisserie chicken, sausages and obatzda, a cheese spread eaten with giant pretzels.

Hirschgarten—Perhaps the biggest beer garden in the world, seating 8,000 people in the summer months. Packed with locals. A former royal hunting preserve with deer enclosure that adds to the atmosphere. Self-service beer and food stalls, plus a restaurant that seats 300 diners. Daily 10 am-11 pm. $-$$. Near Nymphenburg Palace and the Laim S-Bahn stop. Hirschgarten 1, phone 172-591.

Hofbrauhaus—Probably Germany’s most famous beer hall. Not surprisingly, it’s very touristy. Visit it if you must, but try other beer halls, too. Bavarian menu, beer garden. Daily 9 am-midnight. $-$$. Platzl 9, phone 221-676.

Lowenbrau Keller—Next door to the giant Munich-based brewery of the same name, it’s a popular oasis for good beer and tasty food. Cavernous and cozy interior. Beer garden and a very good menu. Hosts some of the wildest Fasching (carnival) parties in Munich, and it’s also hopping during the Lenten Starkbierzeit (strong beer season). Daily 9 am-1 am. $$-$$$. Near the Hauptbahnhof and the Stiglmaier Platz U-Bahn station. Nymphenburger Strasse 2, phone 526-021.

Waldwirtschaft Grosshesselohe—Two-hundred-year-old restaurant and famous beer garden. Midday and evening jazz offerings every day during the warmer months. Good Bavarian food. Daily 11 am-midnight. $$-$$$. Near the Grosshesselohe/Isartal S-Bahn stop at Georg Kalb Strasse 3, phone 795-088.